Youngwoo Jeon

Quiet Korea · Seoul · Dobong-gu · Reading Rooms

A Hanok Library at the Foot of Bukhansan

Most visitors meet hanok in Bukchon or Ikseon-dong, sharing the alleys with crowds and selfie sticks. In Banghak-dong there is one you can sit in all afternoon.

Most visitors to Seoul find hanok, traditional Korean houses, in Bukchon or Ikseon-dong, where they share the alleys with crowds and selfie sticks. In Banghak-dong, in the far north of the city, there is a hanok you can sit in for the whole afternoon. It is a public library, it is free, and on a weekday morning you may have a corner of it to yourself.

The tiled roofs of Wondang Village Hanok Library on a street corner, with a wooded hill behind
The library sits on a quiet corner of Haedeung-ro, with the wooded slopes of the Bukhansan foothills behind it.

Small, but well thought out

Wondang Village Hanok Library is not large. It is a single-story wooden building with curved tile roofs, wrapped around a small inner courtyard. What makes it special is how many different ways it lets you sit.

Along one corridor, a raised wooden toenmaru, the narrow veranda floor of a traditional house, has been brought indoors. It has straw cushions and low tables, so you can sit cross-legged with a book the way people once did on a summer porch. The shelves above it hold a featured collection on Korean tradition and history.

An indoor wooden veranda with straw cushions and a low table, beside shelves of books on Korean tradition
The indoor toenmaru, with straw cushions and a low reading table.
A reading room under exposed timber rafters, with lattice windows and a long desk
Desks under lattice windows and exposed rafters.

Elsewhere there are long wooden desks under the windows with small table lamps, good for a laptop and a long session of work. There is also a children's wing with an orange-cushioned reading nook, which stays lively without disturbing the rest of the building.

The children's room, a raised wooden floor with an orange cushioned bench and full bookshelves
The children's wing, called Numaru, is a raised wooden floor where shoes come off.

The chairs facing the crape myrtle

My favorite spot is a row of armchairs and small round tables lined up along the glass, facing the inner courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard stands a crape myrtle, baerongnamu in Korean, which blooms pink through much of the summer. You sit in a soft chair, the eaves of the hanok frame the view, and the tree does the rest.

The courtyard itself is closed to visitors to protect the plants, so this is a view to enjoy through the glass. That restriction helps: the garden stays untouched, and the room stays quiet.

A row of armchairs and round tables along tall windows looking into the courtyard
Armchairs lined up along the courtyard glass.
A sage-green armchair beside a window, with the pink-flowering crape myrtle in the courtyard beyondThe courtyard seen along the glazed corridor, with the crape myrtle in bloom
The crape myrtle, in bloom in July, seen from two seats along the same corridor.
I spent one afternoon at the desk by the courtyard window with a printed manuscript, and it was one of the more productive afternoons I've had in Seoul.
A wooden desk by the courtyard window with a lamp, a book stand, and a printed manuscript
The window desk, with a lamp, a shared book stand, and a view of the eaves.

A small detail I appreciated

The library keeps shared book stands at the desks, so there's no need to carry your own. If you read heavy hardcovers or work from printed drafts, it makes a long session easier on your neck.

A metal book stand with a clear acrylic page holder, labelled as library property
One of the library's shared book stands.

Walks between chapters

The best thing about this library may be what surrounds it. When your eyes get tired, you are only a few minutes from several places worth a stroll.

Wondangsaem Park
원당샘공원 — right next to the library, with an old spring, a pond full of water lilies and reeds, and a pavilion.
Ginkgo tree
방학동 은행나무 — a giant estimated at around 600 years old, one of the oldest ginkgos in Seoul. In late October and November it turns gold.
Literary museum
김수영문학관 — dedicated to one of Korea's major modern poets.
Dulle-gil
북한산 둘레길 — the trail that circles Bukhansan National Park passes through the neighborhood, so a short forest walk is always an option.
The broad canopy of the 600-year-old Banghak-dong ginkgo tree
The Banghak-dong ginkgo, still green in summer.
A pond covered in water lilies and reeds, with a traditional pavilion behind willows
The lily pond and pavilion in Wondangsaem Park.

You can read for an hour, walk to the ginkgo, return to your chair, and repeat. A day here feels much slower than its location in a city of ten million would suggest.

Visiting

Address
17 Haedeung-ro 32ga-gil, Dobong-gu, Seoul
서울 도봉구 해등로32가길 17
Hours
Mar–Oct: weekdays 9:00–20:00, weekends 9:00–17:00
Nov–Feb: weekdays 9:00–18:00, weekends 9:00–17:00
Closed
Every Tuesday, and public holidays other than Sundays
Admission
Free, with free parking
Opened
May 2022
Best season
Autumn for the golden ginkgo; summer for the crape myrtle in bloom

Hours can change, so check the Dobong-gu library website or a map app before you go. Naver Map and Kakao Map work best in Korea.
Practical details from ktriptips.com and Seoul Media Hub. Photos taken in July 2026.